Sayo-nara

I am so very thankful for this trip of a lifetime. I was deeply touched by the people of Japan who welcomed us with open arms. By nature the Japanese are a quiet and reserved people. That is, until you get to know them. They have a strong sense of humor and love to share a laugh. It was always easy to engage a stranger by asking to take a picture. They acted shy but they loved to pose for pictures. Children especially ran to have their pictures taken while giving the peace sign. I have come to deeply respect the people of Japan.


Even though life is hectic for the Japanese there is an order and purpose to their lives. The cities bustle with the hectic pace of the world, yet one can sense a feeling of calm and serenity in the daily activities. Cars respectfully negotiate heavy traffic, people walk the sidewalks always keeping to the left, and everyone, without exception, waits patiently for a green light before crossing the street. I never feared for my safety. Everywhere I went people were glad to help a lost visitor. When asked for directions the Japanese will walk with you until you are sure where you are going. The language barrier quickly was overcome with smiles and friendly chatter (even if neither party could understand the other).

In the end, it is nice to say that I climbed to the top of Tokyo Tower, that I enjoyed the beauty of the temples and shrines, and that I got to visit Japan. But really, when all is said and done it is the ties that bind us as human beings that are most important. Japan was about the smiles of children, the kindness of strangers and reaching out to someone who doesn't speak the same language. It was more than pristine cities and quiet countryside it was about the people who lived there. People who work hard, who love to laugh, and people who love their families. It is about making a connection to others and sharing what we have in common rather than looking at the things that make us different. It is about educating our children to respect others, to recognize the value in every human being and learning to live together in peace.


I WILL MISS...

hearing "Ohayo gazai-masu" (good morning)
the lights of Tokyo
the simple beauty of a Japanese garden
the hundred yen (dollar) store
Japanese weddings
navigating the subway system
the bullet train
crickets chirping
the children
my special friends from the Tajimi group
especially my host family in Tajimi

DOMO ARIGOTO GAZIMASU
Thank you Japan for sharing you heart with me.
Love,
Barbara Delaney

Winding up the Trip

After returning to Tokyo we knew that our adventure was coming to a close. We frantically shopped and tried to fit in as much sight-seeing as our hectic schedule would allow.

It was wonderful to experience a traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony. This ritual soothes the soul and reminds me of the importantance of taking a respite from the hectic pace of the world. When I sit and enjoy a cup of tea it will remind me of a time long ago when an afternoon tea was a treasured event.

We had time to enjoy a cruise down the Sumida River. For about six dollars this was one of the best values in Tokyo. The tour boat passes under twelve unique bridges. Beautiful buildings lined the river. The sun was beginning to set making the city glow with anticipation of the evening to come. Often we saw blue tents along the banks. This is where the homeless live. We were not allowed to ask about the plight of the homeless as this embarasses the Japanese. We are reminded that even where there is affluence and a strong economy, there are still those among us who do not have a home to call their own.

On the final day, a shopping expedition turned out to be better than I could have imagined. We had 3 hours before our evening event so we hurried to the subways for our last escapade. We got to our destination which was a 9 floor department store. I enjoyed the food floor where delights of every sort enticed the weary shoppers. On another floor I was on my own as I tried to buy a key drive for the computer. I had to explain what I wanted to several salesmen that did not speak any English. (I did get what I needed.) When we walked out to the street it was lightly raining and it was starting to get dark. What was so impressive were the bright lights that lit up the darkening night. This was Shinjuku. It was a throbbing part of the city filled with people coming home from work, shopping and going out for an evening. Every street beckoned us to follow the light. I was mesmorized. It was a fascinating adventure.

Back at the hotel it was our last night together. At the Sayonara Banquet we celebrated our experiencs of the last three weeks. It was a fitting farewell given by our most gracious Japanese hosts from the Fulbright Memorial Fund. They put a tremendous ammount of time and effort into making our entire stay run effeciently. They have made this trip possible to 600 teachers, every year since 1997. We are most appreciative of all that they have done for us. It is impossible to thank them properly.

Of course the evening was still young so we dashed to change clothes before hitting the town one last time. Our Tajimi group knew that no trip to Tokyo would be complete without a visit to a karaoke bar. You pay to use a room outfitted with a karoke t.v. and lots of microphones. We laughed a lot as we sang along to songs we all knew but were sung by Japanese artists. We also made up our own words to some traditional Japanese songs. It was really fun and a nice way to share our last hours as a group. Everyone in our Tajimi group was wonderful and made the trip very special. Each person had unique qualities that made our group what it was. I am going to miss each one of my new friends as they go back to their homes all over the country. We have promised to keep in touch and I truely hope that we do.

It wasn't easy stuffing all of our souveniers into the suitcases and hoping that we would still be within the allowable weight limit. Many people sacrificed clothes and other items to make room for cherished purchases. At ten the next morning the first buses left for the airport as we said sayanara to Tokyo and to Japan.


It has been a week since I have returned from Japan. I am still a little jet lagged but the excitement of the past month keeps me going. I have had some time to reflect on my trip and I am so very, very thankful for the opportunities that I had.


I am enjoying chances to share my experience with friends, family and my students. I am in the process of putting together a slide show. Learning how to do this is a painfully slow process but I am thankful for the expertise of my husband John. I hope to be able share my pictures with you all very soon.

Visiting a Japanese Royokan

A Royokan is another name for a traditional Japanese Inn. These inns are a place to experience a relaxing getawa, Japanese style.

A Brief History of Japanese Ryokans
Ryokans have been a part of Japanese culture for centuries. Some of the earliest ryokans were (and some still are) located on the Tokai Highway which connected the capital city of Tokyo and the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. It was a very busy highway as samurai, traders, and others made their way between the two most popular destinations in the country. Ryokans were built to welcome these weary travelers who needed to rest before continuing on their long journey. Some ryokans were very simple and offered extra rooms in their homes for travelers. Others were more elaborate and the owners worked hard to make their guests feel as welcome as possible.
Inside a Ryokan Guest RoomA typical ryokan guest room contains:
the "agari-kamachi" (after opening the door guests step into this small area and take off their shoes)
"shoji" (sliding paper doors) which separates the agari-kamachi from the room
"tatami" mat flooring (reed floor matting)
low wooden tables
"zabuton" (sitting cushions)
futon (sleeping quilts)
a "tokonoma" (an ornamental alcove built into the wall used for placing flower vases and hanging scrolls)
an "oshiire" (a closet for futon sleeping quilts)
an "engawa" (a glass enclosed sitting area separated from the room by a shoji)
Our stay
We were pampered from the moment we arrived. Women dressed in beautiful Japanese robes met us as we got off the bus. They escorted us to our rooms. Each room was a large space with tatami mats on the floor. A low table in the center was the only furniture. We were fitted for Japanese robes which we were asked to wear during our stay. They were soft and comfortable. Every robe was a blue print, a long red sash completed the set. If you were cold there was a short silk jacket to wear. The men wore blue and the women wore red. You do not wear shoes, only slippers. Tea was poured and my two roomates and I sat on the floor and enjoyed a sweet treat and green tea.
One of the features of the Inn are the hot springs. There are three places to bathe. Two indoor facilities, two outdoor facilities and the river that runs through the property. Men and women go to separe places. You must thouroughly bathe first. Here is the advise from one of the Japanese guides. To enter the bath you are naked. Use your towel to cover your private parts. If the towel is to small to cover your private parts use it to cover your face.
There is nothing like a hot soak to make all the aches and pains dissappear. It is suggested that you go in the baths at least three seperate times to get the full effect. It's a tough job but somebody's got to do it. This is something that I would like to package and bring home.
Dressed in our robes we were invited to dine together. Two rows of low tables faced each other. We sat on the floor in seats with a back. It was quite comfortable. Each person had their own table with food set on it. Many courses of traditional food were served. I had a special vegetarian version. Everyhing tasted very good (even if we weren't quite sure what it was). The sake flowed freely and the Japanese women doted on us. There were lots of laughs and everyone enjoyed the party. There was one more soak in the hot baths before retiring to our rooms.
Our futons were set out on the floor. We settled in under the thick covers. It was very comfortable and no one had trouble drifting off into fit slumber. This was a great way to end our time before heading back to Tokyo.

Saying good-by to Tajimi City

To close our stay in Tajimi City we had a final meeting at City Hall. We met with P.T.A. members to have a heart-to-heart about the schools from the parent's perspective. This experience was a little more enlightening than talking to school administrators who naturally want to do their best to make their schools look good. Parents are more willing to tell it like it is. As I have come to find, we share common problems and concerns. Like parents everywhere they want their children to have the best opportunities in life. Major concerns in the schools are large class sizes, a population of children who are left unserved by the schools, and parents who are uninterested in getting involved. This could have been a P.T.A. meeting anywhere in the United States. We were very appreciative of their candor and we reassured them that they were not alone in their struggles.
We spent the afternoon touring a local industry. Since Tajimi is world famous for its pottery we were invited to the Ichimkura Sakazuki Art Museum and Kobei Pottery site. Here, "Living National Treasures of Japan", (people who carry on the tradition of pottery techniques going back hundreds of years), hone their craft. We toured the museum filled with exquisite pieces of art. Even if you don't know much about pottery you cannot but help to appreciate the beauty created by the hands of these artists.
We had to say good-bye to our most gracious host city of Tajimi. They have welcomed us into their schools and into their homes. We are sad to leave all of our new friends who have taught us about the generousity of the people of Japan. We have formed a bond that cannot be outdistanced by the miles that separate us. Ultimately we know that the human spirit is stronger than any language barrier. Human beings everywhere want the same basic things: to live a decent life, to contribute to the good of society and to be able to give their children a safe and happy environment in which to grow up in. Today we leave feeling like the world really isn't such a big place afterall.
We boarded our bus. As has been the tradition everywhere we go, our hosts lined up and waved us good-bye, always waving with two hands. We have been made to feel like celebraties.

Family Life in Tajimi

There is nothing like Sunday mornings and it is no different in Japan. I was so comfortable in my snug little bed and I was quite happy to wake up and realize that I could go back to sleep! We all got up around 8:00. Soon we sat down to breakfast. We began with salad with a hard boiled egg in it, followed by toasted, thick bread with jam accompanied by starbucks coffee and hot foamed milk...delicious. We went for a walk along a small brook. On the other side of the path were the backyards of people's homes. We passed many gardens, rice paddies and a community flowerbed. We happened upon a pile of discarded things including a statue of woman. Ai and Akana thought it was scarey. I found her to be mysteriously beautiful. If only she could reveal her secrets...
When we returned to the house we had a great treat, sweet potatoes roasted in a dutch oven. They were so satisfying and filled us up. Soon we were ready to go for the day and we piled into the family minivan, a Toyota of course. The navigation system directed us to the pottery outlets (good car). It was fun to browse the rows and rows of pottery that was made in Tajimi. I really, really hope I don't exceed my weight limit going home!
We rode up to the mountains through winding roads. The air was noticably cooler as we climbed to new elevations. Our destination was a provincial tea house nestled in a garden. The smell of lavendar was heavenly and mingled with the scent of freshly burning woods. If I could bottle the fragrance I would.
Inside, we enjoyed selecting French pastries, this was not easy. Each of us had a favorite, well actually, we had lots of favorites but we had to narrow it down to one. The girls and I walked around the gardens while we waited for our tea. The teahouse overlooked a hillside of persimmon trees, ripe with orange fruit. In the far distance tall mountains completed the landscape. It was a special way to share time with my family.
On the ride back into town the girls and I sang many familiar childhood songs, they were well versed in their repitoire. I even taught them a few new ones. It was wonderful to think back on times past when I shared similar experiences with my own daughters. One thing that is very common with the Japanese children is to make decisions very diplomatically...rock, paper, scissors! I often found myself throwing out my fingers to decide important things, like who goes first.
Our time was running out however we were fortunate enough to be able to squeeze in one more shopping trip to the book store and the 100 yen store. This was really fun because my family was able to help me pick out books. I had been at the store before but it was to no avail. This trip was much more productive because I had assistance from someone who could read Japanese!
Sadly our day was coming to an end. We arrived back to the hotel and had to say good-bye. It was very difficult. These people instantly worked their way into my heart. Everything we did together was so much fun, my weekend was perfect. The girls were especiallysad to part. It is wonderful to think that we will meet again. I will miss them. Goodbye Atsushi, Kana, Ai and Akana...I love you all!

I`ve Been Adopted

This is my new family. Meet Ai, Kana, Akana and Atsushi. They Picked me up on Saturday afternoon for a weekend in their home. We drove to their house in Tajimi where we got to know each other over a cup of tea, pictures from home and a map of the United States. They have lived in the United States for three years and everyone spoke English this made it very easy for us to communicate. I knew right from the start that we were a perfect match. Ai and Akana are 9 and 7 and are the sweetest little girls. Ai was my Japanese teacher, she helped me to say the correct things, she translated when necessary and she helped me to know just what to do.
Tajimi is known worldwide for its pottery so the area has many pottery factories and of course, gift shops. After tea we drove to a pottery center where there are hands-on activities. We each selected a piece of bisque ware. We got to paint our pieces. If you know me, you know that this couldn`t have been a better activity. The pieces will be fired and in two weeks it will be ready. They will send my plate to me, I'm so excited!
From here we drove to a beautiful bridge. The sun was setting and were were very high above a passageway between two mountains. We could look down on the town below. Tiny lights started to appear as the evening hours began.
Our next stop was the grocery store. This is really fun and this time I had my little tour guides to tell me what everything was! In Japan you buy your food then go to a table where you bag your groceries. Other than that the stores are as modern and well stocked as an in the U.S.
We went back to their home. It is in a little neighborhood and you feel very welcome as soon as you walk in. As is the custom you leave your shoes at the door. While the girls and I played, Kana prepared dinner. Atsushi helped me to download pictures on to a CD for which I was very grateful. I have taken a lot of pictures (over 700) and I needed to clear some space on my memory card.
Dinner was ready. We sat down at the table which was so nicely set by the girls. In the middle of the table was a round electric pan. Atsushi ladled a batter filled with vegetables onto the hot pan. They made this dish especially for me and I was very thankful to have a good vegetarian meal. When dinner was ready we said a thankyou for the food, Ai helped me to say it correctly. She is very patient with me and slowly pronounces the words. She is very bright and an excellent teacher. We started with delicious miso soup with tofu and vegetables. This was followed by the dish which was now cooked to perfection. I can`t tell you how much I enjoyed the meal and the company.
After dinner I gave them gifts that I had brought. They were so very appreciative. They all looked great in NY Yankee hats. We laughed a lot as we tried to take a picture using a timer. The girls then took me by the hand and told me that they were going to teach me how to take a bath the Japanese way. We went to the bath room. Akana, the little one donned lime green boots that were two sizes too big. It is a small room, half is a floor that has a drain, the deep tub takes up the other half of the room. Akana sprayed the room and then proceeded to hose it clean. The girls instructed me to soap up first and wash my hair. The correct way is to sit on a little stool and use a basin to pour water over yourself to rinse off. "And don`t use soap in the tub, No.No.No." They filled the tub with very hot water. A thermostat regulates the temperature and a soft-spoken woman politely told us when the bath is ready. The girls put a cover over the tub to keep it hot. Being kids, they were the first ones to take a bath. When they were done it was my turn because I was the guest. It was great to soak in a hot tub. The water stays very clean and it is not drained between baths. (It is good to be first).
Kana set up my bed in a room off the living room. It was an empy room covered with tatami (grass) mats. My bed was a futon. Not what Americans think is a futon. This was a mattress that was about 3 inches thick that is set on the floor. This was covered in a soft sheet. On top of this goes a very thick comfortor. I was soooooo comfortable. It was very easy to drift off to sleep by 10:30. I knew I could sleep late because we took a family vote. We decided that no one would get up before 8:00. (Only Akana wanted to sleep until 9:00). I feel asleep thinking about how lucky I was to be in Japan with this very dear and special family. Tomorrow would be a new adventure.

High School in Japan

We are visiting the local high school in Tajimi. High school is from grades 10-12. Grade 10 is grade 1, 11th is grade 2, and 12th is grade 3. There is tremendous pressure to pass the tests for college admissions and today the seniors are taking this test. Tests definately dictate the direction of your career. If you pass the national test you get admission into the national colleges, which are free. This provides an expeptional education but it isn`t easy to get into. Many students have to repeat a year of high school just to be able to retake the exams. Private schools are costly and are most student`s option if they do not pass the national exam. Apparently, the greatest pressures on students are during the high school years, college is more of an experience for learning and is considered a time for fun.

The students are wearing uniforms. Suits for the boys and skirts and blazers for the girls. Different colored ties designate which class you are in. Just like back home the girls hike their skirts up very, very high and the boys pull their pants down very, very low. They look better than our students but they are still typical kids trying to look cool. The kids here are really friendly and are anxious to try out their English on us. We will be eating lunch with them. These students do not prepare the school lunch but they do clean the school like all the other grades. It was funny to see the boys outside this morning sweeping the driveway.

Tomorrow we will be meeting our Japanese host families. We will spend Saturday and Sunday with them. Everyone was very nervous about this stay but now we are all really looking forward to it.

The weather was very warm and rainy due to the typhoon off the coast of Japan. On Tuesday the storm blew over and left us with beautiful, crisp fall weather. Unfortunately the leaves have not started to turn yet. So far I have only had to wear a jacket at night. Air conditioning is not common (but I`m loving it). When I show my pictures of snow in New Jersey they are in awe, this region has a rather mild climate. They love to see my folliage pictures and also the ones of the Japanese cherry blossoms from Branchbrook park.

It is time to walk around and observe the students. I will send phots at another time.

Love from Japan,
Barbara

Back to Kindergarten

Today was really, really fun! We went to an elementary school. They are sooooooo cute. We felt like celebrities from the moment we arrived. We walked down the street to meet the kids as they walked to school. They were　saying hello, glad to meet you in English.
When we got to school they had a special presentation for us. The students taught us games, calligraphy, words in Japanese and origami. They were great teachers. The girls who taught cats cradle were 6th graders. I taught them to say, you go girl and you rock! They loved it. They wanted me to join them later for recess. They loved to tag along with us. They wanted our business cards but the supply was quickly depleted. We had to resort to just giving autographs. Some came back after school just to have us sign their papers.

Once again the kids cooked lunch. I was invited to eat in the home ec room which was prepared especially nice. Supposedly they were making a vegetarian version but I never really know what I am eating. I just smile a lot and pick out the known substances. The kids did all the cooking and then they do all the clean up, there is minimal adult supervision. It is amazing to watch. At the end of the day everyone participates in the cleaning of the school. At this school it included cleaning out the chicken coop and weeding the garden. You always wear slippers inside and change to shoes for the outdoor activities. And do not wear the bathroom slippers out side of the bathroom!

After lunch today we had a chance to interact with the students. They were supposed to be cleaning but they were happy to talk to us instead. Even though they are learning Enlish most of them cannot speak it. I found that if I wrote things down they were somewhat able to understand. Truthfully, most of the English teachers are not fluent in speaking English. Most of the learning comes from a textbook.

The kids were typical teenagers. I asked groups of girls what they wanted to do after high school. Most did not know yet. In every group a few wanted to be teachers, some wanted to go into business and a few wanted to be hairdressers. A few would admit to having boyfriends (with lots of teasing from the other girls). They all said that they want to get married someday. On the other hand the boys wanted to go into business, work with computers and one wanted to be a lawyer. A few of them admitted to having girlfriends, also with a lot of teasing from their friends. I tried to convey "getting married", I know they caught on when the boys all started humming "Here comes the Bride." The boys were?more reluctant to answer this question. All the kids want their picture taken and they ALL pose gesturing the peace sign. Even the girls who were dressed in full kendo garb (a martial art that requires helmets, bamboo swards and protective gear) still had to give the peace gesture even though they were wearing heavy gloves.

Westminster chimes says its time to go to our next meeting.

Music is always being played on the intercom. You hear American songs sung in a Japanese version. It kind of sounds like Alvin and the Chipmunks sing Somewhere over the rainbow. There is a lot of soothing music, classical music and Westminster Chimes to indicate a change of classes.

The community of Tijimi is know for its ceramics industry. The teaching of ceramics is promoted in the schools. There are ceramics everywhere. When you walk up the steep driveway it is lined with ceramic pieces that the kids made. Ceramic people are lined up like soldiers to say hello. Most of the people in town work for the ceramic industry and they want their children to appreciate the art. There is a kiln in every school.

At the end of the day we were exhausted!!! During the question time with the faculty I`m sure I wasn`t the only one who nodded off.

I have great pictures of the kids. Due to confidentiality laws I can`t print them on the internet. I can`t wait to share the pictures of the smiling kids who always give the peace sign when you take their pictures.

It was a long day! The little ones really wear me out. Tomorrow we go to the high school.
I am getting good at blogging on a Japanese blog page!

Love to all,
"Bar bar a"

A Letter to My Students at EMS

Dear Class,
Konichiwa! I am sitting in a Middle School computer class in Tijimi, Japan, where I am able to write to you. We arrived here this morning to spend the day with the 7th, 8th and 9th grades. When we got here the students were hanging out of the windows to say hello. We were greeted by the principal and the vice principal. At 8:05 I gave a short speech during the morning announcements thanking the school for inviting us. I told them that our students at home had lots of questions and we were looking forward to talking with them. I said we would be taking lots of pictures to show our students when we get back home.
When we arrived at school we had to take off our shoes and wear slippers. Everyone does this. The students wear uniforms which are blue sweat suits with white t-shirts. They were all wearing shorts and everyone had on the exact same outfit.
The school is very clean because the students clean it! There are no janitors. One period a day is devoted to cleaning. At the end of the day every student puts a bandana on their head and begins to clean. No one was talking and they were washing the floor (on their knees), sweeping, recycling and washing desks. Classical music was playing while they cleaned. When they were finished the school was spotless. I think when I get back we will practice doing things the Japanese way.
The students are very friendly and try to speak to us in English. This is not easy! I take out my photos from home and they all gather around me to see your pictures. They laugh when they see you at school. Dario and Bryan, the girls all seem to think you are cute. Do you want me to get their e-mail addresses?
While I am typing this the students are having a computer lesson. There are 30 students in the class. I am distracting them because I took out my pictures. When I show them my post cards of the Yankees we all say "Go Yankees" and do a thumbs up! They always say "Matsui" (sorry baseball fans you may correct my spelling for me).
It is 12:00 and I have to go to lunch. Lunch is cooked by the students! I will let you know how it is. I will continue this later.
I`m back. My homeroom class took me to their room. The students each put a bandana on their desk. The assigned students who cooked the lunch also served it. We ate cabbage and vegetable soup, chicken, potatoes with mayonaise, bread,milk and an peach icey for dessert. It wasn`t bad considering the students did all the work. We cleaned up and then it was time for the next class.
When a class begins the students bow to the teacher and say thank you for what you are going to teach me. After the class they stand, bow, and say thank you for teaching me. You can start practicing this before I get back.
After school at 3:30 every student goes to a club activity such as a sport, an art class, home economics, music, swimming or martial arts. I got involved in a ping pong game, I challenged the students to a match between Japan and the USA. We were tied one game apiece and I made their teacher play me for the championship. I easily defeated her! I told the kids they had to say, U.S.A. , U.S.A.... it was all in good fun (but I really did win !)
At the end of the day the students changed into dress uniforms to go home in. They finally left ABOUT 4:45. They have a very long day. We had to stay after school, we weren`t in trouble but we had to meet with the principal. We talked about our experience and we also talked to the teachers. We finally left at 5:30. It was really a fun day. I have many pictures to share with you.
I hope you are doing all your work for Mrs. Rallo. She is sending me reports about everyone. I am having fun shopping in the 100 Yen store. This is like our dollar store. I have bought some food for you to try when I get back.
You can send me your comments on my blog.
I miss you all!!
Lots of Love,
Mrs. Delaney (BAD Teacher)